Mississippi

MISSISSIPPI GULF COAST HALF MARATHON

Biloxi, MS

Home of the Hurricane Hunters: 20 Years After Katrina

Friday, December 12, 2025

For my last "run-cation" of 2025, I had the privilege of visiting Biloxi, Mississippi, home of the Hurricane Hunters, for the Mississippi Gulf Coast Marathon. This trip checked off State #24 on my quest to run a half marathon in all 50 states. I fell in love with the gulf coast and the "Hospitality State," which has some of the sweetest people, best customer service everywhere, and most spectacular food. First settled in 1699 and known for its rich history, the largest man-made beach in the world, 24-hour casino resorts, museums and historic sites, seafood, and southern charm, Biloxi is one of the oldest communities in the United States.

Twenty years ago, on August 29, 2005, around 9:00 a.m., Hurricane Katrina made landfall on the Mississippi Gulf Coast, forever changing thousands of lives and becoming one of the most devastating natural disasters in history. Biloxi endured some of the most impactful destruction during Hurricane Katrina, with East Biloxi bearing the brunt of the most damage, resulting in 80% of the homes in the area lost or deemed uninhabitable. The Biloxi-Ocean Springs Bridge (known today as the Biloxi Bay Bridge), which I had the chance to travel on several times during my trip, had been completely destroyed by Katrina when the concrete decking collapsed. The bridge has since been rebuilt and a walking path was added during the recovery efforts.

It was amazing seeing how different the coast looks today, 20 years later, and unfortunately evidence of Katrina's destruction is still very present in the gaps where homes and businesses once stood. Driving along the coast on I-90, in the spaces between some of the older homes elevated on wooden or concrete stilts, hotels, and businesses, you can see empty plots of land sitting vacant as emotional reminders of what used to be. Good Morning America Anchor and Pass Christian native Robin Roberts was quoted describing the aftermath in 2015, "I’ll never forget looking around the area I grew up in, everything gone, all the landmarks, gone." I couldn't help but wonder what landmarks used to fill the blank spaces, or if homes once sat on the empty lots.

When I arrived in Biloxi on that very muggy and cool Friday afternoon with a temperature in the mid-50's, I couldn't help but think it would be perfect running weather if not for the humidity. When my Uber dropped me off at my hotel, I was ecstatic to be so close to the ocean. What struck me was the peaceful silence of the Gulf, and how it sat placidly like a lake, versus hearing the waves crashing on the beach. The last time I experienced being on the shores of the Gulf was in Galveston on two occasions in 2022, when my husband and I were leaving for a cruise on Royal Caribbean's Allure of the Seas, and then a few weeks later on the Norwegian Prima, and we could hear the roar of the ocean on the beach of Galveston.

My friend Vicki, who I met through our 50 States Half Marathon group on social media and then later met in person during our weekend in Pennsylvania for the Bird-in-Hand Half Marathon, joined me in Biloxi and we spent the weekend together exploring as much of the gulf coast as we could with the amount of time we had. Vicki pulled up to my hotel just as the above gorgeous sunset was happening. It was so peaceful and quiet, and it was hard to believe this was the same Gulf (of Mexico? America?) that my husband and I sailed from both times in 2022. Below are two Galveston sunset photos, and a photo taken from the Allure of the Seas while underway, for comparison to my above sunset photo in Mississippi. Same beautiful orange sun dipping into the ocean in 2022 and 2025, yet completely different temperaments of the ocean. Also, yes — I did just want to show off my sunset photography. It's my blog, and I can do that.

The first order of business for Vicki and I on our first night in Biloxi was to grab something for dinner. Traveling to all 50 states for half marathons inspired me to begin a second goal in tandem, which is trying pizza in each state I visit. Originally hailing from New York, and later New Jersey, I pride myself on being a coffee snob and pizza elitist. Before even getting off the plane, I knew what my pick for Mississippi would be. In 2023, The Sicilian II was voted best Italian restaurant of coastal Mississippi and in 2025 was named Best Italian Restaurant in the State, listed on the travel and destination website "5 Reasons to Visit" as the best Italian restaurant in Mississippi.

With nearly 500 guests giving The Sicilian a nearly perfect score on Google Reviews over the years, I wanted to see what all the hype was about. The dining space was extremely warm, welcoming, and cozy, and our waitress was fantastic. Each entrée on the menu comes with a side of breadsticks, which was not included for orders of pizza, but I had to order a basket of breadsticks on their own to try them out. Everything is made from scratch, and the marinara sauce was no exception and was some of the best I've ever had. I could have drank that marinara sauce by the gallon. Dipping my breadsticks in it wasn't enough, I also slathered each piece of pizza crust in it once my pizza arrived.

I am one who believes pineapple belongs on pizza, so of course I ordered the Sicilian's rendition of the Hawaiian pizza. It was incredible — worthy of New Yorker approval — and having consumed nearly the entire pizza in that sitting, I was excited to have the last 3 slices for leftovers. Vicki ordered a salad with a side of ranch dressing, and the ranch was phenomenal as well and also made from scratch. She commented that she wished she had some cucumbers to have as a snack with the leftover ranch, and our waitress was super sweet and brought her sliced cucumbers to go! With top notch food, top notch customer service, and an old-world Italian atmosphere, the Sicilian lived up to all of its accolades in my opinion. I can't remember the last time I slept so well in a hotel.

Saturday, December 13, 2025

Vicki had signed up to run the Hippie Fish 5K on Saturday morning, and we made a plan to meet up afterwards for bagels. While I waited, I decided to grab a coffee and breakfast burrito at Finch Coffee since I was ready to start my day at 6:00 A.M. Finch is a small business with both a physical brick and mortar shop, and an adorable tiny coffee trailer. This beloved little coffee shop, founded by Brent and Amber Finch, has humble beginnings, starting out as just the mobile coffee trailer and eventually expanding into the brick and mortar space. Of course, I love taking every opportunity to support as many small businesses as I can during my trips, especially if I can get my coffee fix at the same time. The brick and mortar space is vibrant and welcoming, decked out top to bottom in vibrant yellow and cheerful decor that pairs well with a morning jolt of caffeine.

There is an outdoor seating area as well, which looked great for enjoying coffee in warmer weather. Instead of going for my usual mocha, I asked the barista what she recommended, and almost immediately she suggested their Sweet Spice Latte, which was listed on their Christmas Menu. It was a warm blend of espresso, steamed milk, and white chocolate, with cinnamon and sweet spice syrup... and it was heavenly. Being a Christ-centered coffee shop and incorporating faith into their service of the Biloxi community, it's probably safe to say "heavenly" is what they were going for. Everything I ordered was insanely delicious, especially the chocolate chip sea salt cookie, which was also a barista recommendation. I left Finch with a full heart and stomach, wondering how in the world I was going to turn right around and eat a bagel in an hour.

When Vicki finished the 5K, we drove over the Biloxi Bay Bridge to Ocean Springs in search of the perfect bagel. Not only did the Lil Market Deli & Bagelry have the perfect bagels, they also have an adorable outdoor seating area with a walk-in counter for ordering. The bagels are made fresh daily, and there is enough variety in the selection that there is a bagel for everyone, no matter if you prefer a classic plain bagel or the more adventurous jalapeño cheddar. It really is a whole vibe, and if you're a runner like we are who usually plans for a good bagel spot to save the day for pre-race breakfast while traveling, this is the place to go.

Vicki got a breakfast sandwich bagel and I ordered an everything bagel with cream cheese, and we each ensured we picked up a couple of extra bagels to go for our super early Sunday morning pre-race breakfast. By the time we finished our bagel brunch it was close to 11:00 A.M., and we spent the rest of the morning wandering around downtown Ocean Springs, which is postcard-worthy cute. All of the shops, boutiques, restaurants, and small businesses were decorated for the holidays, and a favorite was definitely Ocean Springs Mercantile. If my luggage hadn't been 2 pounds overweight on the way to Mississippi, I would have filled my suitcase with Ocean Springs Mercantile Christmas decor. I didn't think Delta would forgive me a second time and waive the overweight baggage fee again.

The trip would not have been complete without a visit to Keesler Air Force Base, where the 53rd Weather Reconnaissance Squadron "Hurricane Hunters" are stationed, and seeing the WC-130J Super Hercules up close and personal. If you weren't aware already, this is the same aircraft that pulled off the historic mission involving flying straight into the core of Hurricane Melissa, which had a central pressure of 893 mb and a record-shattering 252 mph wind gust. Melissa was the strongest hurricane to hit Jamaica in 174 years, and the New York Times reported Hurricane Melissa's winds were stronger than Katrina's were in 2005. Inside Melissa's eyewall, the Hurricane Hunters' Super Hercules was hurled hundreds of feet up and down in seconds, with nearly 700 feet of vertical motion in one minute. The crew collected historical data and have been hailed as heroes for their bravery.

Visiting Keesler AFB was an amazing opportunity to see the same aircraft that pulled off one of the most legendary missions in Hurricane Hunter history. We didn't leave Keesler without making a stop at the Commissary for some last-minute pre-race provisions. After visiting Keesler, we stopped by the Hurricane Katrina Memorial, which was a must for both of us. The memorial is dedicated to all of the Mississippi Gulf Coast victims who perished in the hurricane. There is a lot of symbolism and deep meaning incorporated into the memorial that may not be apparently obvious to the casual observer — such as the memorial's height, which stands at 12 feet and is approximately the same height that Katrina's storm surge reached at the Town Green, where the memorial sits.

The memorial used to have a glass case containing various items from buildings that were destroyed, donated by residents. Today, the glass case no longer sits at the base of the memorial, and instead, the banner displayed beside the names of the victims encourages visitors to see the Hurricane Katrina sculpture at the Biloxi Visitors Center. After Ocean Springs, our exploration of the Gulf Coast along I-90 took us from Gulfport back to Biloxi, all along the same exact route we would be running during the race the next day. We saw all of the same scenery and landmarks we would pass, which made the race feel familiar and took away any potential anxiety.

The race expo and packet pick-up was in Gulfport at the Centennial Plaza Resort, which was 5 minutes from the half marathon start location, and also served as the exact halfway point for the full marathon, which starts in Pass Christian. We got a nice preview of our race medals at the expo, and there was plenty of official merchandise for sale in the space. Picking up our packets was extremely simple and hassle-free, and all of the volunteers were extremely friendly and helpful. There was a photo booth for those interested in official photos, and a wall where participants could search for their names.

It was a very small expo with a big race feel, and very professionally executed. On our way back to Biloxi when we decided to wrap up our long day, we snapped a few fun photos on the beach, since Biloxi Beach has 26 miles worth of great photo ops. Pre-race dinner was leftover pizza and breadsticks from Sicilian II. I can't recall a time I've ever eaten leftovers for my pre-race dinner — colleagues, friends, and family will tell you I am "bougie" or a "diva" when I travel — and one of my pre-race rituals is treating myself to a splurge for dinner the night before a half marathon for extra encouragement. However, I made an exception this time, which is a testament to how awesome Sicilian II is that I was willing to eat leftovers out of my hotel microwave before a race. Would definitely recommend, 10/10.

Crossing the Coastline with Gulf Coast Gale Force Winds

Race Day: Sunday, December 14, 2025

"There are times where you make something so cool, and you know it's cool, and you're really proud of it, but you're flying into the wind. And you're just always up against some friction. Then there's times, these very rare instances, where you make something, and the wind is at your back." — Taylor Swift, The End of an Era Docuseries

Race morning came early at 4:30 A.M. Shuttle service at Keesler Federal Park to the race start opened up for business at 4:45 A.M. for both the marathon and half marathon. A total of 5,200 runners showed up to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Mississippi Gulf Coast Marathon events, and the race organizers advised showing up early to the shuttle since they anticipated each bus filling up fast. Shuttle service would end with the last bus departing at 6:10 A.M. with no exceptions, ensuring everyone made it to the staging area on time for a 7:00 A.M. start. To balance being on the safe side, and not setting our alarms for stupid o'clock (anything earlier than 4 A.M. is a hard no for me unless I am catching a flight to an exciting destination), Vicki and I decided to meet up at 5:15 A.M. in front of my hotel and walk over together to Keesler Park.

Starting off, the temperature was a breezy 60° with 94% humidity. My weather app said the wind was 11 mph, and it would later increase to 22 mph with gusts up to 30 mph. As the humidity waned throughout the morning, the wind would pick up significantly and the temperature would drop 10 degrees, making for race conditions that gave me Nebraska vibes. Knowing myself very well, I preferred the wind to the humidity. I could always run faster with a little wind in my sails, even if the direction of the wind presented a challenge, but humidity is my Achilles heel. The humidity that morning rivaled Hawaii and Alaska, and this year, Mississippi was ranked #4 for highest average relative humidity in the country by World Population Review.

On the bus, I shared with Vicki that I'd slept fairly well with the exception of waking up at 1:00 A.M. and again at 3:00 A.M., because I kept having anxiety dreams about missing the shuttle and having to start the race late. In my nightmares, I rationalized that I could just "catch up" with the runners who already started the race. Vicki laughed and told me this exact scenario had actually happened to her before, and I said it's pretty much my worst intrusive thought almost every night before a race. The bus ride was about 20 minutes, made a few minutes longer because our bus driver made a wrong turn. This seemed ironic to us since the course ran straight on I-90 and the staging area for the start was Jones Park. One of the runners across from us asked what we were all wondering: "How do you get lost in a straight line?"

We finally pulled up to Jones Park around 5:40 A.M., and there was a bank of porta-johns at the staging area. A light rain began falling, and not wanting to start the race with wet shoes, we hurried down to the Mississippi Aquarium to take shelter under the tramway and pedestrian bridge that stretches across I-90 from Jones Park to the aquarium. The sight of hundreds of people crammed under the bridge was comical, but we were happy to be out of the rain temporarily. I found a spot to sit, and ate my breakfast. Prior to the start of the race, the announcer called clubs and groups to the front of the Mississippi Aquarium sign to take group photos, and I joined the 50 States Half Marathon Club for our group photo. It was great running into so many familiar faces right before the race!

About 15 minutes prior to the start of the race, I had a sudden wave of anxiety and decided to try and use the restroom. I hurried back across the park to the bank of porta-potties where the bus dropped us off. After waiting 10 minutes in a line that wasn't moving, I decided I would have to wait until I was on the course. I sprinted back across the wet grass to the start corral after the National Anthem finished, and found my expected finish time pace group. Vicki found me and we took a quick photo together before we took off. The whole course was nearly pancake flat, with the exception of mile 12, and we ran a straight shot down I-90 the whole way from Gulfport to Biloxi with serene views of the Gulf to our right, and Waffle Houses and hotels to our left.

After spotting the first Waffle House, I decided to make it into a game, and counted a total of 4 Waffle Houses along the course from Gulfport to the finish. By my math, on average, there is a Waffle House approximately every 3.2 miles. The first Waffle House at the 5K milestone served as a landmark for a set of two porta-potties, and I decided this line was far shorter than the first, and chose to make a stop. One porta-potty was out of toilet paper, so the men and women in line came to an agreement that the porta-potty without toilet paper would be for the men. Meanwhile, an errant runner approaching the porta-potties from the sidewalk attempted to swoop in and cut the line, not seeing us on the other side, and we quickly defended our positions and directed the bashful runner to the end of the line. We all had a good laugh about it — there is nothing like the camaraderie of runners in line for the bathroom during a race.

This pit stop set me back about 5 minutes. My only complaint about this race is that there were not enough porta-potties for the first few miles. Aid stations with water, Powerade, and Gu gel were plentiful, almost every mile, which was wonderful, considering I am typically used to aid stations being spaced out every 2 miles or more. For a race that had nearly zero spectators along the course, there was no shortage of hundreds of volunteers eager to cheer us on and keep us hydrated. Around mile 5, the Beau Rivage Resort & Casino came into view, and it remained in our line of sight for the remainder of the race. This was a different kind of torture, because not only did the Beau Rivage mark the finish festival right across the street at Keesler Federal Park, but my hotel, the DoubleTree, was also directly across from the Beau Rivage.

For the next 8 miles, I was motivated entirely by the finish line and a hot shower visible in the distance, though they seemed to not get any closer as the miles crept by. Shortly after mile 11, we ran past the Biloxi Lighthouse, which has been standing since 1848 and is proclaimed to be one of the first cast-iron lighthouses in the South. The 64-foot lighthouse weathered Hurricane Katrina, surviving storm surges that rose up to a third of its height, while being battered by Category 5 winds that broke many of the light cupola windows and destroyed the electrical system. Guided tours of the lighthouse are available daily, and no reservations are required unless you are visiting with a group.

I was appreciative of the opportunity to see the lighthouse up close on the course, and it was a timely reminder of resilience at a time when I was beginning to need all the encouragement possible during the back half of the race. When we reached the exit ramp to I-110 just before mile 12, we experienced the less than desirable incline and banking of the ramp, the wind picked up to 22 - 30 mph, and I could feel the bone-chilling 10 degree temperature drop almost immediately. The incline and relentless headwind continued until we reached the turnaround point on the ramp, and we were then treated to a very pleasant downhill, ushered with ease to the finish by gravity and the wind at our backs.

On the downhill, I pushed myself to pick up the pace — getting a "second wind," if you will — not worried about my finish time as much as I was thinking about post-race food and getting warm. We jogged into the stadium on the red dirt path and crossed the timing mat, each runner awkwardly attempting to get that perfect finish photo. I just can't seem to get my timing right, except on very rare occasions. This is 100% of the reason I never buy race photos. After taking a few photos at the finish line, I asked a volunteer where we could make use of the food and beverage tickets attached to our bibs. She said she was pretty certain all the food was on the upper level of the stadium, and directed me to the giant tiki hut directly above us.

I made the arduous climb up the stairs (exactly what I wanted to do after running 13 miles) to the top level and made my way to the tiki hut. I asked the volunteers ladling food out of the large stainless steel chafing dishes what they were serving. The options were shrimp gumbo and rice, or chicken alfredo linguine. With great excitement at these premium gourmet options that I never before experienced at previous races, I selected the chicken alfredo. As I was leaving with my bowl, another volunteer made me aware I was in the VIP tent. Glancing around self consciously — but not willing to relinquish the pasta — I apologized profusely, explaining I was directed to this tent, and the volunteer assured me it was fine and they had plenty of food.

Glancing down as I exited the tiki hut, I noted the large A-frame VIP Experience sign that was inconspicuously nestled at the entrance. My guilt being in possession of the bowl of VIP alfredo was compounded as I made my way along the upper level of the stadium, getting stopped every few feet by curious runners asking where I got the pasta. I scarfed the pasta down as quickly as I could to prevent further self-induced shame. I own my mistake, but it's clear the Universe put me in the path of luxury because I am deserving of all things first class. If anything, what this taught me was that I might consider shelling out the extra bucks for the VIP experience at my next race, because that pasta was pretty top tier for post-race food.

After spending some time at the finish festival, Vicki and I made the windy trek back across the stadium to the exit to head back to our hotels. One warm shower and fresh change of clothes later, I made my way to Ocean Springs to The Lady May for a big post-race brunch. It was closer to noon by this time, and I hoped the wait for a table wouldn't be too long. The Lady May is a favorite among locals, best known for their legendary homecooked Sunday brunch, and custom homemade products in their storefront gift shop, including tallow-based cooking oils, skincare remedies, and soaps. The restaurant's original owners and founders, Will Taylor and Chris McDonald, pay homage to the legacy of both of their grandmothers' recipes with their menu that is a blend of Italian Catholic and Southern cuisine.

Unsurprisingly, given the popularity of The Lady May as a must-visit tourist spot and a local staple, I waited about 40 minutes for a table. It was worth the wait, and I would have waited even longer if I had known ahead of time how incredible the biscuits would be. I ordered the breakfast plate, which included cheesy grits, a biscuit with honey butter, two slices of bacon, and eggs, and because I knew I would still be hungry, I also ordered a Belgian waffle on the side, which came with honey butter and syrup. Everything was great of course, but the biscuit stole the show. Lady May's biscuits are seriously some of the best you could ever have on the Mississippi side of the Mississippi. Vicki joined me soon after I got a table, and she ordered a whole order of biscuits, after I raved about the one on my plate.

With tired legs and a very full stomach, I went back to my hotel and passed out almost right away, and I ended up taking a 3-hour nap. Typically I don't need to take a nap after a race, and I usually have energy left over to explore the area I'm visiting, but the extra exertion of running against the wind must have taken more of a toll on me than I expected. Next thing I knew, it was almost 6 P.M., and time to eat again. Shaggy's was only a short distance from my hotel, and was on my list of places to visit based on all of the positive Google reviews. There was also nothing I craved more than a giant burger loaded with all sorts of produce and vegetation. Especially pineapple. I ordered the Big Kahuna Burger, and while I waited, I became interested in the story of Shaggy's, which was displayed on the back of the menu.

The restaurant's founder, Ron Ladner, actually wrote a book about the restaurant's origins, called Shaggy's Cheeseburgers: A Real-World Tragedy to Triumph Story... Through Hope, Love, and Change. In June 2005, Ron purchased a bait shop in Pass Christian, which he envisioned expanding as a restaurant that served burgers, seafood, and cocktails. Two months later, Hurricane Katrina roared up the coast and leveled the bait shop during the destructive rampage. There was nothing left of the bait shop, or any of the homes and businesses that originally lined the coast, and Ron envisioned rebuilding a place where the grieving Pass Christian community could gather and recover in the wake of the tragedy that took their homes and livelihood. In April 2007, Shaggy's finally came to life. The burger and brownie sundae were excellent, and I loved supporting this small business with such an incredible backstory. And yes... I bought the book.

On Monday morning, I headed out for an early breakfast before my flight home, and had a cozy experience at Jacked Up Coffee Bar. I ordered the peppermint bark mocha from the December specials menu, and loaded avocado toast. The addition of eggs to the avocado toast was an optional add-on, and I went for it, making sure I had all of my macronutrients covered. With Fleetwood Mac playing over the speakers, and my plate loaded with two generous servings of avocado toast, I was one content elder Millennial. The avocado toast arrived atop wax paper that was printed to look like newspaper, and when I texted my husband a photo of my breakfast, he replied in jest, "Wrapped in recycled newspaper... how sustainable of you."

The ongoing joke between us is that I am a hipster Millennial who lurks in coffee shops, drinking pretentious-sounding lattes and eating avocado toast, and I never would have imagined how successfully I could hit all the marks of my stereotype in southern Mississippi. Leaving the coastal small-town charm of Biloxi was really difficult, and this is definitely an experience I would repeat again, whether for a standalone visit, or for another round of the Mississippi Gulf Coast Half Marathon. I couldn't have planned a better way to close out my racing season for 2025. Thank you for the hospitality, Mississippi, and here's to more adventures planned for 2026!

LODGING RECOMMENDATION:

DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Biloxi

940 Beach Blvd

Biloxi, MS

Happy running and safe travels,

Stefanie